River crossing: This is pretty easy. Look for a big rock that overhangs the river on the wall side for the best place to cross. Nice and sandy there :- ) During the winter the speed of the water is not an issue – the water only comes up to maybe your knees. Spring might be a different story.

The location is pretty obvious. Look for the webbing on the Moonlight line, and most likely for parties on that route. At the actual base of the climb there are some blocky third class ledges. Get your bags up as high as you can get them; my 60m barely stretched to where I left them.

PITCH 1
C2, 5.8+. 120' of climbing, 200' of hauling. Go left, into the corner. The aid climbing is reasonably easy, but there are a couple of free moves in the middle of the pitch that are a little grippy. Good stance at the belay. Okay haul, a little, errr, staccato.

PITCH 2
C1. Go right from the belay out and around two small roofs. There is about 15 feet of third class scrambling to get to the base of the right crack. Couple of easy free moves at the end. Lots of good bolts here, big ledge. The hauling kinda sucks. Tough to get back to the belay if you’re soloing; lower out the bags or they’ll go bouncing across the face. 100’

PITCH 3
C1, 5.8. Head up left into the corner. Climb the small crack in back, using the opposite wall to stem. Some mandatory free moves at the end, not too tough. This pitch sucks, kindof a grovel-fest. Big ledge, good bolts. Leave your bag at the anchors of P2 and do the two pitches in one haul. 60’

PITCH 4
C1+, 5.6. Head up toward the shrubbery on some easy free moves to some easy aid. Mantle onto a ledge and head up the right crack toward the half moon shaped bolt ladder. A couple thin placements get you to the ladder, some easy free moves onto the ledge. Careful of the loose block on the ledge. Good bolts, plenty of room, okay bivy. 150’

PITCH 5
C2. Mix of good and bad rivets over the ledge to a thinnish crack. It looks thinner than it actually is, mostly small nuts and offsets, small cams. The occasional yellow or red alien to make you feel oh so safe. Great bolts at the top of the pitch, probably an okay portaledge bivy. 150’

PITCH 6
C2+. Yellow aliens, yellow aliens, more yellow aliens for 100 feet. An occasional nut placement and larger cam. Toward the top it narrows down one size to green aliens. Straight in good climbing. Backclean like a beast but careful of the fall potential. Easy haul. 120’

PITCH 7
C3-, 5.6. The crux pitch. Small pieces, up around a loose block via some rivets, some more small stuff to the Amoeba. Clip a rivet around the Amoeba. Careful of the general looseness and the medium sized block on top of the Amoeba. Super thin and mildly technical above the Amoeba, really crunchy. Free moves onto the ledge are pretty easy. 130’

PITCH 8
C1, 5.6 Easy free to start, easy clean aid. Short pitch, great ledge. Go left at the top to do the Jarrett finish, go right for the standard finish. 100’

PITCH 9
C2. (Jarrett finish) From the ledge on the left side of the P8 crack, wander up and right on medium sized gear into the wide pocket, which takes a blue Camelot. Meander further right then head left toward the obvious two bolt anchor. Once you haul to that anchor, hop over the edge and fix a line to the tree 50 feet up. Then rap / down jug to drag the pig over the lip.

Descent: Descent via the West Rim trail – super easy; drop down and cross the river at first opportunity. I left my car .1 mile South of the climb and had quite a bit of walking on the road from the river crossing on descent back to the car, past Weeping Rock, etc.

EOD RECOMMENDED RACK
2 black alien, silver metolius
3 blue alien, purple metolius
3 green aliens / blue metolius
4 yellow aliens
3 red aliens / orange metolius
2 red metolius
2 #0.5 Camelots
2 #0.75 Camelots
2 #1 Camelots
2 #2 Camelots
1 #3 Camelot
3 sets of nuts, you need offsets, e.g. DMM Wallnuts